Wales Coast Path: Dale to Marloes

Sunday 19^th September 2021 – 13 miles

We are now staying in Dale, a tiny village on the Marloes peninsula in Pembrokeshire. After a grey and drizzly day yesterday when we travelled here, with a visit to St David’s, today it’s warm and sunny but with a stiff breeze – not as humid as Ceredigion either. It’s my first time in Pembrokeshire.

We walked from our house at the top of the village to the harbour, about 5 minutes away. Lots of small boats and dinghies heading out into the bay. You can just make out Milford Haven in the distance. We followed a lane up the hillside through woods, passing an interesting sculpture workshop.

Sculpture workshop

We met a large party of students, presumably heading down from the field studies centre which is up this road. We also met a runner who had a small dog running after him with its tongue hanging out! We turned and went across a couple of fields when the runner overtook up going in the opposite direction, the little dog still keeping up with him. We saw them again later on having a swim in the first small bay.

Dale peninsula

It was interesting heading round the peninsula as you see different views quite often. We saw the Irish ferry heading into Pembroke Dock.

Further round the peninsula there was an old blockhouse, now a holiday cottage, and a lighthouse plus coastguard lookout. It was surprising quite how many houses there were up here.

The path was mostly over rolling fields with a few up and downs to small bays. The rocks are red here as opposed to the grey we had further north, and the headlands end in jagged rocks.

Coastal cliffs

I was very pleased to come across the stone at Bull Bay marking the place where Henry Tudor had landed in 1485, on his way to the battle of Bosworth Field and becoming Henry VII. It seems such a strange, remote place to land, but apparently he had supporters here (having been born in Pembroke and from a local family) and was avoiding more populous areas where there could have been forces on the lookout for him.

Henry Tudor’s landing place

By early afternoon we came to a path leading back to Dale – we could see our cottage and the far harbour. Behind us was a small bay. We had already decided to go on a bit further, as the circular walk back to Dale would have been a bit too short.

We follow the cliffs round past a disused airfield – mostly roads and runways on the ground, then we had a great view northward to Marloes sands.

We headed inland here, checked out the National Trust car park, and had a welcome coffee and cake before following lanes back to Dale.

Wales Coast Path: Urdd Centre (Llangrannog) to Aberporth

Thursday 16 September 2021 – 13.6 miles

We parked in the large free car park above the village of Llangrannog and walked along the inland lanes to the Urdd Centre. There were quite a few groups of children there this morning. We found the path easily enough – they seemed to be replacing the rather confusing signs (we had help!).

Helpful workers at the Urdd Centre

Another beautiful day with views up and down the coast, but a refreshing cool breeze at times too. We walked round a promontory/ hill fort, where there were ponies, and quite a few people walking out to the headland.

Pony near the hillfort

We then descended to the beach at Llangrannog, then up past the statue of St Crannog looking over the bay, and out onto the hills.

St Crannog overlooking Llangrannog bay

There were rocky islets and small sandy bays, with a few steep climbs. We kept thinking the next one would be the last …

It was a bit hard to find the path into and out of Tresaith – we met another couple peering at their phone as we were checking the map. A steep hill led up from the harbour. This last hill was definitely one you kept thinking, “this will be the top,” but it wasn’t!

Shortly after the eventual top, there was a wide, level tarmac path leading from a caravan site into Aberporth. We passed a few old railway carriages that had been converted into some very nice and characterful holiday homes.

Railway carriage conversions

Aberporth

From Aberporth we followed quiet roads and lanes back to Llangrannog. On the way we met a couple changing a car wheel whose three dogs were wandering down the road. We offered to help, but they said they were fine, although I did hold the two dachshunds while the woman fetched the sheepdog from further down the road – which then gave me a big lick! We also liked this fellow in a telephone box!

Back at Llangrannog, we got swimming costumes out of the car and had a quick, refreshing dip, then tea at the pub.