Wales Coast Path: Aberdaron to Penllech

wcp-aberdaron-penllech19 November 2016 – 15.4 miles

We stayed at a very nice B&B in the centre of the Llyn Peninsula. The owner was chatting to us and said they had a lot of walkers staying there, including another Ruth, who was also walking the Coast Path – yes, I follow her blog! (coastalwalker.co.uk). He very kindly also followed us as we dropped off our car from the turn around point, then drove us down to Aberdaron, so we could do a linear walk. wcp-aberdaron-penllech-2

We had a quick look at the beach and bay at Aberdaron, then set of along the cliff paths. At the next bay we saw a man heading for a dip in the sea! Now, it was a pleasant day for November … but …! wcp-aberdaron-penllech-3

We headed west along the coast, with the bulk of Bardsey Island ahead of us. We climbed over the headland to reach the tip of the Llyn Peninsula, and you could see some of the buildings on the far side of the island. wcp-aberdaron-penllech-4

The coastline became more rugged, with cliffs and jagged rocks facing the Irish Sea. From the high point of the headland, you could see for miles around the coast, up towards Anglesey, south across Cardigan Bay, and inland to the snow-capped peaks in Snowdonia. There was a small coastguard lookout here and there had been an RAF station there during the War – some concrete foundations were visible around the area. wcp-aberdaron-penllech-7

We met a couple of groups of people by the headland. Later we met a runner and a couple of dog walkers, but otherwise it was fairly quiet. There were still a few people around when we reached the wide sandy beach at Porth Oer, families, well wrapped up and kids in wellies. Time was getting on and so we decided to play safe and take the waymarked path on top of the cliff, rather than walking along the beach and finding out why it was called Whistling Sands, just in case there wasn’t an obvious route off the beach at the far end (there was!). wcp-aberdaron-penllech-9

We were conscious of the time, and the light fading. I think this section had a lot of wishful thinking – that bay ahead of us is the one we are heading for! – but it wasn’t. The path was still pretty good, and we could see where we were going, but we knew this would not last for much longer, and so decided to head inland. wcp-aberdaron-penllech-10There were not many signposts, but we headed across a field that looked like a used path heading to a group of houses . At the far end there was a waymarker. We got to the house, walked the short distance across their back garden (sorry! – didn’t set off any alarms or anything!) and to a long farm track back to the road.

By this time, it was almost dark so it was quite a relief to just walk the last mile or two on quiet roads back to the car park. The route actually turned out to be a bit further than we’d anticipated (closer to 16 than 13 miles!) and maybe if we’d checked properly we would have walked a little faster in the morning. Another adventure!wcp-aberdaron-penllech

 

 

Wales Coast Path: Towyn to Penllech

Friday, 15th August, 2014 – 7 miles

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Llyn Coast

We had stayed overnight at Bryn Gwynant Youth Hostel – as pretty much the nearest hostel to the Llyn Peninsula, then driven down to Towyn (via Tesco in Porthmadog to get suncream … which we would definitely have needed if we hadn’t bought it!). We parked at a farm/campsite/caravan site and even put something in the honesty box. This was a little way north of where we had turned round last time, so we initially covered about a mile that we had already done. However, it was a convenient spot!

We headed for a building on the headland which we had seen as a landmark on our previous visit. It was the gable end of a building, with some other small buildings (fisherman’s huts?) lower down, in the shelter of the cliff face. WCPSlightly further on was a launching place for fishermen (Porth Ysglaig), where there were several cars and vans parked, and a family who had been kayaking drying off and warming up. There was also a brick lined pit, which I assume had something to do with fishing, but I have not managed to find out anything so far (I wonder if the guide book to the Coast Path has interesting snippets like that?).

Cormorants

Cormorants

At the next bay, Porth Gwylan, we were a little disconcerted to see a fully-clothed man standing thigh deep in the water. We wondered if we ought to be concerned for him, but then noticed he was photographing a seal, bobbing in the water a few yards away! We stayed and watched, taking a few photographs as well!

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Porth Gwylan

WCP-3We had lunch in a small bay, watching birds who were well camouflaged among the pebbles. We also found this happy pebble …

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Happy pebble

We then reached the wide, sandy bay of Penllech. It was a sunny day, but with a cool wind. There were quite a lot of people and families on the beach. We were rather confused here over the route as it very definitely led us on to the beach, although the OS map shows it as above the high water mark and off the sand. We came to a set of rocks, where the tide was occasionally lapping in. There didn’t seem to be anything for it but take our shoes off, wait for a wave to be out and go for it! Once we got round, we realised it wasn’t nearly as wet as we had expected and you headed away from the water just round the first small outcrop.

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An unexpected paddle

We then followed the path inland to a car park which made for a convenient stopping point. However, there should be a path heading along the coast, which we didn’t see! We didn’t walk as far today as we might have as we were heading to Prestatyn to spend a weekend with the extended family. WCP-11

The wind dropped as soon as we were slightly inland. We walked back along deserted lanes, seeing hardly any traffic, apart from a quad bike and a herd of cows crossing the road, then treated ourselves to an ice cream at the caravan site/car park.

WCP Towyn to Penllech